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Chris Bockman visits a little-known enclave in the Pyrenees where France and Spain have battled for supremacy over the centuries. These days Llivia is governed from Madrid, though its people increasingly express feelings of Catalan identity - and they're still entirely surrounded by French territory. Everything depends on the "free road" to Spain... Picture: a historic stone crest depicting the settlement of Llivia (Owen Franken/GettyImages)