Diary
entry - December 01, 2003
Despite
an early start when we got into Old Delhi to explore the spice market
it was chaos - rickshaws everywhere, traffic at a standstill and
literally thousands of Indians milling around doing very little
except shouting!
 It
was a classic Indian scene-electricity cables sparking above
your heads, open drains and dust. There were people with disabilities
and child beggars in dark corners.  |
Robert
Rees |
The
buzz of activity couldn't be captured on a film set and will stay
with me forever.
It
is quite staggering to watch - a photographer's dream.
Each
snapshot could conjure up an epic story and unique memories of India.
This
place has a passion about it that is tainted by dirt, smells and
aggression. Yet it remains special and exotic.
Spices
and gold leaf
Every
spice under the sun is available. I even picked up some gold leaf
for chocolate truffles when I get back to the UK.
Some
of the chutneys I taste here are really spicy, but always very bitter,
which is where ingredients are really used creatively.
I have
eaten some weird things in my time, but a kind of gooseberry I found
must be the biggest mistake so far. The flavour was like paint stripper
on my tongue - never again!
We
went off the beaten track a little and spied an ant trail of elderly
Indians carrying huge sacks on their backs. I wanted to see where
they were coming from.
As
the trail led into tighter alleyways the smell of the spices became
more and more intense. The film crew couldn't go any further, but
I persevered.
Classic
India
It
was a classic Indian scene - electricity cables sparking above our
heads, open drains and dust. There were people with disabilities
and child beggars in dark corners.
Some
Indians were sleeping, many just eating and sitting in curled up
poses. But as I got to the end I realised what was attracting all
the attention - a new delivery of chillies and exotic spices.
Stall
holders were crowding round and bartering for the best price for
the new season's stock. People were covering their faces to avoid
scarring their lungs as some of the smells were so potent.
The
oldest man I've ever seen was sitting at the top, calmly joining
in with the bartering. It was all a far cry from the London Stock
Exchange.
A
confusion of smells
We
jumped over open drains and debris to return to our vehicle to go
back to the hotel. We were all happy to get a wash. What a confusion
of smells!
 The
team has got the hang of how to serve the English food now and
the cheeses continue to fascinate.  |
Robert
Rees |
This
hotel is absolutely first class and I would have no hesitation in
recommending people to stay at the ITC Maurya Sheraton.
The
West View restaurant offers first class open- grilled food under
the directorship of Bill Machetti. The staff are wonderful and it
must be why Bill Clinton's been staying here - it was good to see
him at such close hand.
The
team has got the hang of how to serve the English food now and the
cheeses continue to fascinate. Some of the expats have been round
to try Yorkshire Pudding and a few bits and bobs of Gloucestershire
produce.
Drinks
with the girls
I had
drinks last night with a few great girls from the World Health Organisation,
the High Commission and DFID (UK Government department that works
to eliminate world poverty).
 |
Robert
Rees stayed in the same hotel as Bill Clinton. |
One
of the things we were talking about was a funded immunization programme
and since I've been here I can really see its importance.
Only
two days of cooking to go here. I am counting the hours till my
day off at the Taj Mahal. It really can't come soon enough after
14 days of solid graft.
by
Robert Rees
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