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Indian spices bring the food to life
Spices are crucial in Indian cuisine
"We spied an ant trail of elderly Indians carrying huge sacks on their backs."
- Robert Rees

Last updated: 01 December 2003 1635 GMT
lineGloucestershire's chef Robert Rees goes in search of ingredients at the Old Delhi spice market.
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» Read Robert's first diary entry
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Read Robert's second diary entry
» Read Robert's third diary entry

» Read Robert's fourth diary entry

» Read Robert's fifth diary entry

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Diary entry - December 01, 2003

Despite an early start when we got into Old Delhi to explore the spice market it was chaos - rickshaws everywhere, traffic at a standstill and literally thousands of Indians milling around doing very little except shouting!

quote
It was a classic Indian scene-electricity cables sparking above your heads, open drains and dust. There were people with disabilities and child beggars in dark corners. quote
Robert Rees

The buzz of activity couldn't be captured on a film set and will stay with me forever.

It is quite staggering to watch - a photographer's dream.

Each snapshot could conjure up an epic story and unique memories of India.

This place has a passion about it that is tainted by dirt, smells and aggression. Yet it remains special and exotic.

Spices and gold leaf

Every spice under the sun is available. I even picked up some gold leaf for chocolate truffles when I get back to the UK.

Some of the chutneys I taste here are really spicy, but always very bitter, which is where ingredients are really used creatively.

I have eaten some weird things in my time, but a kind of gooseberry I found must be the biggest mistake so far. The flavour was like paint stripper on my tongue - never again!

We went off the beaten track a little and spied an ant trail of elderly Indians carrying huge sacks on their backs. I wanted to see where they were coming from.

As the trail led into tighter alleyways the smell of the spices became more and more intense. The film crew couldn't go any further, but I persevered.

Classic India

It was a classic Indian scene - electricity cables sparking above our heads, open drains and dust. There were people with disabilities and child beggars in dark corners.

Some Indians were sleeping, many just eating and sitting in curled up poses. But as I got to the end I realised what was attracting all the attention - a new delivery of chillies and exotic spices.

Stall holders were crowding round and bartering for the best price for the new season's stock. People were covering their faces to avoid scarring their lungs as some of the smells were so potent.

The oldest man I've ever seen was sitting at the top, calmly joining in with the bartering. It was all a far cry from the London Stock Exchange.

A confusion of smells

We jumped over open drains and debris to return to our vehicle to go back to the hotel. We were all happy to get a wash. What a confusion of smells!

quote
The team has got the hang of how to serve the English food now and the cheeses continue to fascinate. quote
Robert Rees

This hotel is absolutely first class and I would have no hesitation in recommending people to stay at the ITC Maurya Sheraton.

The West View restaurant offers first class open- grilled food under the directorship of Bill Machetti. The staff are wonderful and it must be why Bill Clinton's been staying here - it was good to see him at such close hand.

The team has got the hang of how to serve the English food now and the cheeses continue to fascinate. Some of the expats have been round to try Yorkshire Pudding and a few bits and bobs of Gloucestershire produce.

Drinks with the girls

I had drinks last night with a few great girls from the World Health Organisation, the High Commission and DFID (UK Government department that works to eliminate world poverty).

Bill Clinton
Robert Rees stayed in the same hotel as Bill Clinton.

One of the things we were talking about was a funded immunization programme and since I've been here I can really see its importance.

Only two days of cooking to go here. I am counting the hours till my day off at the Taj Mahal. It really can't come soon enough after 14 days of solid graft.

by Robert Rees

» Read Robert's first diary entry
» Read Robert's second diary entry

» Read Robert's third diary entry

» Read Robert's fourth diary entry
» Read Robert's fifth diary entry

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